Blake's M4: Friendly Firepower

Lead photo credit: @danielbooty

He could look past one letting go, but when the second EJ motor blew, Blake Titus’ honeymoon phase with his WRX officially ended. Though there was an opportunity to rebuild for the third time, Blake sensed a better platform might help him make an easier transition from autocrossing into track days. He was half-right. 

The Subaru’s successor, an S52-swapped E30, held some promise, and for a while, it seemed like he’d found a way to get his jollies with half the headaches. That wasn’t to last.

As it turned out, the S52’s head had cracked somewhere on the way to his first track day at Thunderhill West. After pulling his oil pan’s plug, a milkshake poured out, and Blake considered throwing in his helmet. 

Thankfully, there was another car sitting in Blake’s garage. His F82 M4 was far from track-ready, and the predicted running costs made him wince, but it was operational and still covered under warranty.

His first outing at Laguna was successful; a 1:42.10 is an encouraging time for a heavyset grand tourer with more torque than traction. Sure, it floundered around on stock springs, but that time in an intermediate’s hands proved beyond a doubt that the F82 platform had potential. He knew it wouldn’t be easy on his wallet, but out-of-the-box performance like that can make people do silly things.

Curious where he could start tweaking the car to find some more cornering speed, he got underneath it and studied the intricately arranged layers of structural stiffeners meant to help the big BMW belie its weight.

“You just have to look around and marvel at how much structural bracing there is. After a while, you start to ask yourself, ‘How could I improve upon this?’”

Thankfully, not much is needed to get this car ready for the racetrack. The first round of basic bolt-ons consisted of a staggered set of Apex EC7s wrapped in Toyo R888Rs, GLoc R18 and R10 pads, Castrol SRF fluid, and a set of Girodisc two-pieces—the factory rotors would warp after a few track days.

That simple setup served him well for the first year of tracking the car, but after he’d gotten properly acquainted with the M4, he sensed the weight wasn’t being managed as well as it should be. 

To hasten weight transfer and provide a little more body control, Blake picked a set of Swift Spec R springs measuring 5K and 13K front and rear, respectively. These were a grand compromise; they were chosen so that he could retain some semblance of comfort on his drives to and from the track. Mainly, they allowed him to keep using the factory EDC dampers.

“I’ve kept it full weight for now. I thinks it’s pretty easy to turn a nice dual-duty car into an uncomfortable POS,” Blake admitted. 

The rubber began to feel like the limiting factor after some time, so Blake bought a new set of tires that promised more consistency. The Nankang AR-1s delivered in that respect, and they helped him chop two seconds off most of his best times. 

They would fade fast, though no faster than any other tire he’d tried. Its heft was undeniable and, unfortunately, virtually unmovable. Most of the strippable weight sits around the rear axle, which shouldn’t be removed. Even in stock trim, the M4 needs more weight over the driven wheels; it always struggles to administer the S55’s power without wheelspin. 

In the name of improving traction, he decided to try to force the rear into the pavement with Bimmerworld’s GTMore wing. It made a considerable difference—he chopped his time at Buttonwillow 13CW by four seconds the first time out. However, the front hadn’t been balanced aerodynamically and the resulting understeer made it even easier to fry the fronts. Bimmerworld’s rep recommended he try a track-oriented set of shocks, so Blake bought a set of MCS two-ways and turned a few knobs.

Few things have helped settle the rear like Bimmerworld’s dry carbon GTMore wing.

He might not’ve known precisely what he was doing, but he was relieved to see the rep had Blake’s best interests in mind. The resulting compliance made a world of difference—particularly at the bumpier tracks he frequented. At Buttonwillow 13CW, Blake could drop his best time by nearly three seconds—a 1:55.8. Quite an improvement from a set of shocks adjusted and an educated guess. 

Credit: CaliPhotography

He figured that then would be as good as any time to throw a front splitter into the mix, so he tried cutting his own Alumalite piece and bolting it to his front, but it folded at the end of Thunderhill’s front straight. The replacement, Turner Motorsports’ MC2P splitter proved more resilient and effective, though it still cannot match the downforce generated at the hinteraxel. To find an agreeable balance, Blake had to reduce the wing’s angle of attack.

By this stage, Blake was pushing the car hard enough to test the powertrain’s thermal resilience. After one frustrating leak from the charge air cooler, he replaced the factory item with one of CSF’s, and swapped the standard heat exchanger with a Koyo unit. Since then, it hasn’t been fazed by August heat.

A square set of Yokohama A055 slicks mounted on narrower APEX VS5-RS wheels gave him the grip and neutrality he’d been seeking for some time, and with the elements cooperating, Blake went back to Buttonwillow and logged a 1:54.3—his best yet.

Blake’s still searching for a 52, but he feels that the M4 needs to diet or get its footwork finely tuned by a master before that’s possible. As mentioned earlier, pulling weight isn’t his idea of a good time, so he’s decided instead to buy the every one of Turner’s adjustable suspension arms as well as their differential bushings for perfected body control. If all goes to plan, he won’t have as much difficulty putting down the power—which he’s recently increased with a Bootmode BM3 CS tune. As much.

While the F82 M4 doesn’t change direction like a true sports car can, it compensates with unbelievable power—enough to spin at seventy in a straight line. Where it’s at its best is in the longer, faster corners; the long wheelbase and accompanying stability make it easier to trust in these bends. At this point, it’ll just take a little bit of tweaking to make it a nimble thing in the sections where traction and rotation take precedence.

Credit: @ariesphoto7

If Blake’s experiences have taught him anything at this point, it’s that “the torque is always trying to kill you, so you have to be very quick with your hands and be confident in your skills; you have to drive with all the nannies off. MDM will kill your lap times and too many people rely on these systems. Then the first time they turn the traction control off they send the car to Copart.

The F82 is an amazing platform that still lacks in some of the aftermarket support that have made the E92, E46, and E36 such appealing track cars. Still, the potential is there to make the F82 a real contender once the rest of the world catch on. I can’t wait to see what other companies offer in the future to keep improving on the platform.” 

Sam's Semi-OE Turbo Miata: Taking Advantage of Pre-COVID Pricing

I try to fight the occasional sting of envy when I walk through the Speed SF pits. One particular car made me want to crawl up inside a hole and cry—this immaculate ‘00 Miata. I’ve already bought and sold one NB Miata—a car I wasn’t completely enamored with, but after learning that Sam Tsui was able to get this car with such an incredible collection of parts for the 2022 price of a rough NB without a hardtop, I was kicking myself for not buying one a little earlier.

A couple years prior to the pandemic, Sam helped define the term “pre-COVID prices.” He’d had some fun over the prior five years in a Fiat 500 Abarth, but the high center of gravity, intrusive nanny systems, and cost of performance parts were too much after some time. He’d grown somewhat comfortable with the car, but its odd behavior in fast transitions kept him from pushing it harder. As he was starting to push hard on a regular basis as a Lemons racer, he started searching for a rawer car. Within a month, he came up on the steal of the decade.

The low costs of a Miata drew him to seek out a lightly modified NA or NB. “I wasn’t looking for something that had been pretty much completed, but that’s just how it worked out,” Sam said. At a barbecue, he learned of a sorted track car his friend was looking to sell. This car had pretty much what any track-oriented Miata needed, an immaculate exterior, and it had a special motor fitted.

The trials and tribulations of turbo Miata ownership are nothing new, but it seems that sticking to a semi-OEM route can keep the headaches to a minimum. What Sam’s friend had done was swap the entire powertrain from a Mazdaspeed Miata—the 1.8-liter turbo engine, six-speed gearbox, rear axle, and limited-slip differential. With a few bolt-on parts from Flyin’ Miata and a good tune on a standalone Hydra Nemesis EMS, the engine makes a healthy 210 horsepower and 200 lb-ft of torque. Best of all, that torque came on strong at 3,000 rpm. That really changes the driving experience. Now, the throttle is squeezed and not pounded like a veal cutlet.

It looks nearly factory because it is.

Having only a set of 15x7” Avanti Storm S1 wrapped in 205s to put that power down, Sam had to recalibrate his right foot pretty quickly lest he spin in a slow corner. “The Fiat was easier to drive; I could floor it in hairpins and it would hook without any wheelhop. With the Miata, I have to squeeze the throttle carefully in second and sometimes third gear.”

As he was looking for that added feeling of connection, he made sure to replace all the tired rubber bushings with polyurethane items. In conjunction with a stiff set of Megan Racing coilovers, the reduced slop helped him achieve a handling balance that verged on oversteer in most places. In fact, the Miata will try to spin if it’s thrown into the corner, so Sam learned to slow his steering rates down a little. Much more than the Fiat, the Miata is eager to rotate.

And stop. The brakes were replaced with the Flyin’ Miata Little Big Brake kit, which consists of Wilwood four and two-pot calipers clamping OEM rotors. For a car this light, the stock rotors are more than sufficient. On a set of 200-TW tires, the braking this 2,450-pound car is capable of will leave most folks with their mouth agape.

A basic lightweight flywheel aFactory ABS, a hard top, and a good amount of safety equipment help Sam push with confidence.

For how little he got this car for, you’d expect there to be a stripped interior, rust, or some other catch. I’m sorry to say, this car has very little wrong with it. Cosmetically, it’s about as nice as a track car should be. The interior is all in place, and there weren’t any hack cuts in the carpet to fit the rollbar, either. The hardtop is painted nicely, the wheel fitment is subtle but noticeable, and the generally understated appearance doesn't scream regularly driven track toy.

For a turbo Miata, it’s pretty robust. Sam has run nearly twenty track days with the car on the stock radiator and fan setup, only aided by a Flyin’ Miata FMIC, and it still runs cool. However, he has to watch the water temp when the ambient is pushing 100.

Though it’s been tuned to such a high standard and really doesn’t need much else, Sam left his mark on it. In addition to swapping out the bushings, he fitted the interior with an OMP wheel, a Hard Dog rollbar/harness bar, and a RaceDirect.com 6-point harness. Just a few tweaks, but enough to make it feel like it’s his. Without a doubt, this no-stone-unturned track car doesn’t need much more.

Sean's S2000: Happy To Take The Abuse

Sean got his racing introduction through Spec Miatas. From 2006 to 2009, he spent his time on racing these little cars and learning the finer points of how to keep minimum speeds up. Close competition and no power acquainted him with the challenges of rolling entry speed and minimizing scrub—the two best ways to find speed in an MX-5. Though true with all cars, finding real speed in the Mazda depends entirely on those two. Whatever mark was left on him through those years of competition served him later in life when he sought the answer to a question that’s plagued many drivers: what really matters in a sports car?

After graduating in 2010, his new job started taking up more of his time. No longer would his schedule allow for the hectic race weekends, so he sought his kicks in a more cost-effective, flexible fashion: lapping days.

However, he found that his Miata was hopelessly outgunned by the V8-powered cars at track days. Even mid-tier Camaros using two-thirds of the track would walk away from him, so he wanted sometime more powerful to feel closer to the front of the pack. The answer was not a muscle car, thankfully, but another lightweight with more power and a better weight distribution.

His Lotus Exige was fast, but it was beset with problems. Setting one up took a lot of innovation as there were very few local HPDE drivers driving them back then. It also had a habit of heat soaking after a few laps, so he was pressed for time to put in a flyer. Plus, he was constantly sweating the inevitable repair bills. “At the end of the day, I realized I was only getting about twenty laps in on any given track day—tops. I couldn’t shake this feeling that I was working too hard for not enough payoff.”

What Really Matters

Sean’s foray into lapping days in an exotic was a little underwhelming, so he took what some may consider to be a step backwards and purchased his friend Tom’s 2005 S2000. The car was largely unmodified, with just a roll bar installed by SpeedSF veteran Dan Avon.

Rather than seeing this as a demotion, however, Sean saw it as a step in the right direction. The S2000 offered him some of that Miata reliability mixed with much more speed. Most importantly, it offered a better balance of time invested and emotional payoff.

“The car had to offer me a couple things. First, I wanted to focus only on my driving. Also, I wanted to have a car that had been well developed already, mainly so I could save time setting it up, but also so I could gauge my performance against other drivers with similar equipment.”

There was another realization he had after moving on from the Lotus to the Honda. The more mechanically sympathetic approach needed in a fragile, powerful car kept him from feeling truly alive. He preferred something he could push harder and harder until he found the limit—something not restrained by too much power, heat soak, or any other technical setbacks. “There’s a strong correlation between my happiness and the amount of time spent at full throttle,” he declared.

Naturally, the simpler S2000, all too happy to take the abuse, gave him an opportunity for unrestrained, aggressive driving without him feeling any need to baby the equipment.

Build Ethos

Inspired by the quick local S2000s built by Seigo and the Garys (Yeung & Wong), he got to work sorting his car out. The objectives were to stick to the proven parts, retain all the factory body panels and all of the interior pieces, and avoid JDM parts. The last aim mainly for price reasons.

The parts list is short, but a car that is so strong from the start doesn’t need much other than a committed driver.

Unmodified 183,000 mile AP2 engine

Ohlins DFV dampers (a little on the soft side)

Karcepts sway bars F/R

Racebred 3” splitter

Factory CR lip

AJ Hartman swan-neck wing

Stoptech C43/C42 brakes F/R w/ SR33 pads

Recaro SPG bucket seats

Sabelt six-point harnesses

Titan 7 T-R10 wheels

Maxxis RC-1 R2 tires

Despite trying hard to avoid the pricey Japanese parts, a Mugen steering wheel founds its way into his life and the price was too good to pass. Once the rule had been broken, he had less of a problem adding the renowned OS Giken limited slip differential. “I guess I failed with that aim,” he laughed.

A Motivational Sparring Partner

To get the most from the car, Sean had to set it up so that he could steadily increase his forcefulness behind the wheel. Therefore, it had to be confidence inspiring and somewhat stable—it had to encourage him to push.

Sean describes the Honda as neutral bordering on pushy. The mild downforce encourages smooth inputs, and its intuitive brake balance makes it fairly easy to trail brake. Despite the grip, it’s still a 220-horsepower momentum car that needs to be driven in hard. In fact, throwing the car around a little and tempering any excessive aggression is the way to get the most from it.

Though this footage Sonoma demonstrates a safe sort of understeer in the first two laps, he is able to unlock a little more rotation simply by pushing harder towards the end of clip. After a 1:52 and a 1:53, he found a little more confidence needed to start asking more of the front and neutralizing the push with more curb usage and a lot more entry speed. Getting on top of the car and ramping up his steering rate resulted in him chopping two seconds off his previous time, resulting in a S4 class win and a new class record of 1:50.6.

“I can set the fastest time on the seventh or eighth lap in this car, so I have plenty of time to put together a lap methodically. It allows me to build up the pace and drive quickly without taking too many risks.”

After the car’s competitive debut this summer at Sonoma, Sean looks forward to continuing to learn from the great S2000 pilots in the area. Thanks to the S2000’s encouraging nature and the supportive, relaxed format of the Speed SF Challenge, he’ll be able continue whittling away his laps and learn everything that raising minimum speeds requires. If he’s given some more time to fine-tune the setup and carry all the cornering speed he learned in Spec Miata, he’ll find a couple more seconds—no doubt about it.

A Letter to Our Open-Top Drivers: Is a Rollbar Necessary?

If you’re a Miata driver like me, you’ve been through a bit researching rollbars. They’re a necessity that worsens the practicality of an already impractical car. However, they do make life much more enjoyable when it comes time to tracking.

Purposeful looking, potentially chassis stiffening, and, of course, safety adding. Considering how the list of essential trackday modifications for a lightweight car like a Miata is quite short, the additional $500 needed to help ensure an unscathed exit from the car is money well spent. Moreover, the relief which comes with knowing you’re decently shielded from an impact, you gain the confidence to go harder and experience the thrills your time and energy should be rewarded with. Isn’t the whole point to feel comfortable enough to push?

This Harddog M1 rollbar set me back a mere $350 and only took a couple hours to install.

Though the initial investment isn’t much, you’ll have to pay in other ways. Say goodbye to some space inside the cabin. Also, make sure there’s proper padding in place. The last thing you want to do is spend the time and money installing a rollbar and then clonk your head on it. Though the padding may seem unreasonably stiff to the touch, it’ll deform just the right amount when your head hits it at high velocity. 

For those of confused on the definition, let’s spell it out in perfect detail. A roll bar (defined here as a protection hoop with four mounting points) will help protect the occupants in the case of a roll over accident. Additional plusses include stiffening and a place to mount your seat, harnesses, camera, fire extinguisher, and whatever else you need in your cabin. It does come with some setbacks, however: a heavier car and reduced rear visibility being the main two. 

We adhere to the usual broomstick test. This test, usually verified by laying a broomstick on top of the the rollbar and the a-frame, is meant to determine if the highest point of the helmet is beneath this line between the two highest points on the car. Obviously, any helmet protruding above this line will not be sufficiently protected in a rollover.

Many open-top race cars come equipped for rollovers from factory.

Sadly, the seriousness of the build isn’t the determining factor when considering which rollbar to buy. Some cars, like the Miata, require one to be added to run most HPDEs. Some cars are equipped more adequately for track use from the factory, and require no such addition. However, a little extra safety isn’t a terrible idea when the speeds are consistently rising. The question remains: how hard do you feel like pushing?

When it comes time to start investigating the various safety options out there, it’s good to remember that there are some shysters happy sell you some scaffolding that wouldn’t support the weight of a golf cart in a rollover situation. We’ve listed a few proper rollbars which won’t crumble—and will give you enough confidence in your car to get after it.

Even if it’s not strictly required by the sanctioning body, some additional rollover protection for the open-top car isn’t a bad idea.

Acceptable roll bars include, but are not limited to, the following:

• Hard Dog units including the AC, D (center-braced model only), AB-M1 Hardcore, TB-M1 Hardcore Hardtop, 9B-M2 Hardcore, and NB-M2 Hardcore

• Auto Power Street Roll Bar, Street-Sport Roll Bar, and Race Roll Bar

• Blackbird Fabworx (Miata / MX5/ 2017 Fiat 124) SD (for NA and NB), RZ (for NC and ND), and GT3 (for NA, NB, NC, and ND)

Known Convertibles that will pass tech “as is” from the factory

• Targa top vehicles — OK

• Audi A4 / S4

• Audi TT Roadster (2009)

• Aston Martin DB9, DBS

• BMW 1 & 6 Series

• BMW Z3 (Optional pop-up bars)

• BMW Z4

• BMW E36 (Optional pop-up bars)

• BMW E46

• BMW E90

• Chevrolet Corvette C8

• Chrysler Crossfire

• Dodge Viper

• Ferrari 355

• Ferrari 360

• Honda S2000

• Honda Del Sol (top on or off okay)

• Infinity G37

• Jaguar XK8 / XKR

• Jaguar F-Type

• Lamborghini Murcielago / Gallardo

• 2002+ Lexus 430sc

• Miata NC & ND

• Mercedes SL (1990+)

• Mercedes CLK, SLK, E Class, C Class

• Mini Cooper 2009+

• Nissan 350Z / 370Z

• Porsche Boxster

• Porsche 991 / 996 / 997

• Saab 9-3 (2004+)

• Volvo C70

• VW Eos

• Some newer Beetles — years pending

Obviously, the list of acceptable convertibles is growing. If your vehicle is not on the list, you must provide factory documentation stating that your make and model have rollover protection. Factory-produced sales brochures and websites (a link may be sent), letters, or emails—which must be on letterhead or use the manufacturer’s domain—from an employee of the factory are accepted. The letter must state very specifically that the vehicle does indeed have rollover protection. If it was an option (e.g. pop-up roll bars), then you need to prove your car has these.  If your car isn’t listed, contact info@speedsf.com and let us know.

Though the chances of a rollover are slim, it’s important to prepare for the worst. But more than that, having the right safety equipment will help a driver make the most of their time on track and rest knowing that they’ll be fine in the event of an incident. That reassurance will help them push and gets nearer to the limits more of the time, and that’s what it’s all about.