CSG Brake Pads: Details Make the Difference

Much like tire technology has evolved rapidly in the last several decades, so has brake technology. There are hundreds of brake compounds produced all over the world, and the majority of off-the-shelf brake compounds offered decades ago still exist today. These compounds that may have been great in the past may not be ideal for today’s performance requirements.

CounterSpace Garage have tried to make their mark by putting together a detailed, comprehensive understanding of the entire braking system (across numerous makes and models) as well as the general demands of the entire racing landscape. After spending years testing hundreds of discs, fluids, compounds, and calipers to identify their respective limitations, they’ve been able to satisfy a wide array of performance cars, tracks, and tire compounds.

Contrary to popular opinion, outright braking performance is only one part of the puzzle. Not only are CSG concerned with improving the pad’s outright performance, but they also think about pad control and the context in which the pad will be used. If a pad isn’t suited to the driver’s preferences or the car’s limitations, it will never be used to its full.

To improve control, maintaining consistency is paramount. If the brake pad breaks down, then it snowballs into fluid failure, excessive caliper flex, and excessive disc wear. Consistency also means friction characteristics at different pressure applications, pad modulus through the temperature range, and performance from fresh to the backing plate.

Expending Energy Efficiently

Aiming for a consistent friction material often yields higher pad stiffness, which allows for a more responsive braking feel or “bite.” This doesn’t mean the brake torque is delivered in spikes, which can cause early ABS intervention, but rather with smoother engagement and smoother release. Primarily, the driver feels a more intuitive relationship between his brake application and the way his car decelerates.

Thanks to CSG's custom setup, Gary Wong enjoys reliable, reassuring braking performance in his high-horsepower heavyweight Supra.

Stiffness has secondary benefits including: better pad wear, lower overall heat generation and less heat transfer into critical components like the caliper and hydraulic fluid compared to the existing compounds on the market. A stiffer pad is usually a denser pad, and more material means more thermal capacity.

In order to understand how stiffness plays a role in response, we should use a simple physics equation with the assumption of infinitely rigid structures:

Friction Force (Ff) = Coefficient of friction (mu) x Normal Force (Fn)

This equation helps us visualize the effect of using two different sanding blocks to hold a piece of sandpaper against a sanded surface. A sponge requires more vertical force to generate the same level of friction force at the sanded surface compared to using a piece of hardwood. Now it’s obvious why having a good pad compound can result in better pedal communication and improved control over braking events — it maximizes tire adhesion and improves peak deceleration characteristics more consistently and with less force.

Tailor Made

When we’re trying to assess the level of control their particular pad offers, we consider things like: whether or not they need to build up the threshold pressure, whether they need to reduce their brake pressure carefully like with an aero car. This helps us establish the control objectives,” CSG’s David Leung notes.

“If a driver is dealing with a lot of ABS intervention, a digressive pad can help. As it limits some of that power at higher pressures, it makes it less likely to activate ABS.

Part of Gary Yeung's remarkable speed in his normally-aspirated S2000 comes down to its ability to decelerate, courtesy of CSG.

For cars with aero, a progressive pad might be best. As temperature and pressure increase, breaking power increases at an exponential rate. However, when the aero bleeds off (often very rapidly), this compound makes it easier to reduce pedal pressure quickly enough to avoid lock-up.

All of these profiles are taken into consideration to deliver what is ultimately an intuitive braking experience that allows the driver to focus on other aspects of driving and racing.

To demonstrate the ways in which driver preference factors into the equation, consider just the well-known users of the Supra A90 who’ve partnered with CSG: Jonathan Wong, Jackie Ding, Gary Wong, Allen Patten, Dave Kramer, Drew Turner, and even Toyota Engineering have turned to CSG for their own bespoke setup.”

Thermal Constraints for Different Applications

To get the most from a particular set of pads, some turn to ducting, which helps keep a brake system in its operating window. Some pads need to operate at a much lower temp to generate the performance and better wear (especially pads that generate excessive heat). High levels of heat generation also transfers into the caliper, causing them to get soft, and also transfers into the fluid.

Some pads need heat to perform, which is where ducting can be a detriment, since heat may be required for some friction materials to improve wear consistency in racing situations. Ducting also subjects a brake system to a wider spread of temperatures, which can shorten the lifespan of various components.

Viz paint is used to establish the exact thermal parameters their brakes must operate within.

Ducting does have some benefits especially when you’re operating a spec/homologated brake system that may have undersized calipers/discs (they usually get replaced after each race) and require the brakes to be regulated in a more consistent temperature range.

At the end of the day, ducting should really be a fine tuning tool, not a complete solution to resolve brake issues. It all comes down to designing for the appropriate application and optimizing the performance zone.

Maximizing Both Ends

“We also assess the rear brakes’ utilization. Regardless of whether they’re optimizing their rears to work with the factory bias or they’ve added a proportioning valve, we want the brakes to aid in slowing the car and assisting in rotation.

Jackie Ding's able to make his Supra turn like a much smaller car thanks in part to the well-chosen pads at the rear axle that facilitate usable rotation. 

By maximizing the rear brakes, we can utilize the tire grip from all four corners of the car. Using tire grip from all four tires means better distribution of brake load, maximum deceleration, better wear, and better temperature management to keep the brakes in the optimal operating zone.

A Compendium for All Invested

To take every conceivable factor into consideration is how CSG has been able to develop a wide range of pad solutions. It’s also due to driver feedback and motorsport data, as shared with them by their loyal customers. This information is then filtered down into a range of solutions that meet spirited driving activities to racing at every single level between HPDE and professional racing applications.

"All relevant areas of braking performance must be understood to provide a truly premium product," David adds.

CSG have made countless strides towards finding the right products for most of today’s platforms, They’ve built a compendium of braking data over years through internal development goals, brake dyno work, interacting with their customers, and using their feedback to tailor their products to the customer’s demands. They offer a huge array for different conditions, setups, and for different driving styles.

“CSG is a premium product and the costs reflect that. With that cost, we offer free consultation since we want to meet our customer’s needs and optimize results. All we ask is that they provide data. Ideally, this comes in the form of telemetry, but onboard video, photos, and anything else that can contribute to a clearer picture of what’s happening at the track,” David adds.

The brake system is an ecosystem in itself, which is better understood through constant communication between customer and manufacturer. This interaction is the backbone of CSG’s feedback loop, and only through this and the high-quality data it relies on has high-grade deceleration been made available to drivers of all stripes.

Passing Etiquette: Making Space and Saving Face

Photos (unless specified otherwise): Trevor Ryan

Overtaking is a tricky business, and learning how to pass decisively and safely takes time and practice. It pays to err on the side of caution — especially with unknown drivers. After all, squabbling for position isn’t the most judicious thing to do when there’s no prize on the line. Nobody wins a track day.

As a general rule in racing, the overtaker must present themselves alongside the driver in front — typically with the overtaking driver’s front wheels ahead of the overtaken driver’s rears before the turn-in point. This way, they’re able to see the other driver through their peripheral vision. Studying one’s surroundings and knowing where other cars are at all times is necessary to become a capable track driver.

It pays to be seen. Credit: CC-by-2.0/MIDWST.BLUR

Of course, this is a rule followed in wheel-to-wheel racing. With Speed SF, the passing car must have its front wheels in-line with the passed car’s front wheel before the beginning of the braking zone if they want to attempt a pass. It’s worth giving everyone a little more room since nobody can truly win at a track day, after all.

Our aim is to give all our drivers their own space and help the faster drivers safely navigate the slower traffic so nobody gets held up.

To give assertive advanced drivers the leeway to pass freely while allowing novices time and safety to ease their way into it, we have outlined some hard and fast rules for our various run groups. For those groups with stricter passing rules, like Green and Blue, the process of passing is made as simple as possible.

Novice Group (Green)

Responsible novices dedicate most of their mental energy to driving their own car, so they likely lack the bandwidth to watch their mirrors while driving. For this reason, we only allow passing on the designated straightaways — never through the middle of a corner — to simplify the mental burden. The courteous driver being passed should lift off the throttle to make life easier for the passing driver. This really helps when overtaking in a Miata.

When the driver being passed decides to lift off their throttle, they give the passing driver more room to complete this overtake prior to the braking zone, which is our second requirement. The passing driver should not be pressured into squeezing themselves down the inside at the turn-in point. Just because someone, especially a novice, gives the point by does not mean that a pass is possible; the passing driver must carefully judge whether it is going to work. If it’s doubtful the pass can’t work, back off — nobody wins a track day.

Keep an eye out for that point-by. Credit: OpenTrack

Generally speaking, we like the driver being passed to allow the passing driver to rejoin the conventional driving line before turning in. If they insist on turning into the corner from an inside line (ie. a line closer to the apex than the standard line), they must navigate a shorter radius and therefore reduce their entry speeds accordingly.

Because the novice’s situational awareness isn’t as great as a regular who instinctively checks their mirrors, we require the passing driver to wait for a specific gesture from the driver ahead. By leaning their left hand out the window (or right in a RHD car) and pointing at the portion of the track they’d prefer the overtaking driver to use while passing, they give a sign of recognition and avoid confusion. Wait for a clear signal, and preferably before a longish straightaway — it’s safest and easiest to pass there.

Intermediate Group (Blue)

Even with their experience, we want members of blue group to follow the same passing rules as the members of green.

HARD RULES: GREEN/BLUE

Point-by passing is required at all times. Under no circumstances is passing in the corners allowed, and passes along the straights must be completed before the braking zone.

Point-by Recommended/Mixed Group (Yellow):

After a dozen days or so, driving alongside others at a quick pace is no longer terrifying like it once was. We try to encourage these drivers to be assertive with their car placement so as to begin the two-part process of an advanced pass. Both parties must be aware of one another, and as long as there’s enough room to overtake safely, we allow passing without a hand signal. Though a point-by is still recommended to make sure everyone is aware, it isn’t required.

There are other ways to communicate reaching an arm outside the window. For instance, the driver being passed taps their rear-view mirror prior to the turn-in point (a common acknowledgement). This indicates that the driver attempting the pass is seen and will give way. The driver ahead can also offer a corner without signaling by slowing than necessary before turn-in, usually off the ideal line. If the driver behind sees the “door opening” and the driver ahead taking an odd line slowly into the corner, they will know they’ve been given a chance to pass.

When overtaking and turning in on a tighter line, remember more braking pressure (if braking is necessary) is likely required.

HARD RULES: YELLOW

The fundamental skill required to run in this group is strong situational awareness. Drivers are allowed to pass anywhere, but only at a moderate pace. Point-by passing is recommended, but not required. Exercise caution and make sure to read the driver ahead before attempting a pass.

Open Passing Group (Red + Gold):

Highly experienced drivers aren’t protected by such rules, which means they need to read the subtler signs of a driver giving way, learn how to pass decisively, and how to present themselves so as to be seen.

To run successfully in the Open Passing Group, you must know how to improvise with car placement while keeping the general level of grip in mind. Even while driving through a corner side by side, both drivers must be able to react and, hopefully, anticipate the other’s move.

Limited visibility and reduced grip make overtaking in the rain even more challenging. Remain patient and, due to the tricky conditions, avoid forcing the issue.

Of course, open passing doesn’t mean fighting for position like it would in a true race setting, but the increased level of competition typical in this run group

Assuming both parties can recognize each other’s position on track and drive in harmony, these sorts of overtakes can be done safely. They do, however, require a good deal of spatial awareness, decisiveness, car control, and forethought. For that reason, we only allow drivers with over twenty track days under their belt (or those holding a racing license) to join this group.

HARD RULES: RED/GOLD

Twenty-plus track days or racing license needed to partake. Must be experienced with open passing. No passing restrictions as long as drivers exercise good judgment.

Final Thoughts

Cooperation is the name of the game, so try to wait until a definite sign is given before attempting a pass. Make sure there’s adequate grip available to take a tighter line than the conventional line if that’s what the situation requires. The tighter the line, the more deceleration prior to the corner is required. Trailbraking helps here.

If a train of cars ahead makes life difficult for a faster driver bringing up the rear, they’re advised to pit momentarily to establish a gap. This makes life much easier and offers a better chance of achieving a personal best.

When deciding whether or not to attempt an overtake, remember that the passing car is always responsible for ensuring a safe pass. Even if the car ahead closes the door on the driver behind, it’s the latter’s fault. Leave a little space whenever possible and never squeeze somebody on a track day.

Keep eyes up at all times, scan the environment for faster and slower cars both and behind, and try not to fixate too much on rolling speed into the corner during an overtake. Instead, prioritize a strong exit. Well, the beginners should try to do this to avoid sliding off when overtaking on the inside. The experienced drivers know that, in racing, sometimes getting ahead of the driver in front is all that’s needed; an overtaken driver can’t always respond if the overtaking driver exits the corner slowly. Again, that’s racing, and this is track day driving, where the objective is to bring the car home in one piece.

Lastly, remember that there’s nothing to win here. Track days exist to help people gain experience running independently, so giving way to a faster driver when they’ve demonstrated superior speed is a mark of maturity. Yes, it might sting, particularly if they’re in a much slower car, but leave some room for humility and open the door — following a faster driver closely can be the best sort of instruction anyone can get.

Peter's 2JZ-Swapped S13: Tweaking the Famous Drift Recipe

Photos: Luke Munnell

After an itinerant adolescence filled with drifting and hot rodding, Peter Hong relocated to Los Angeles, where his friend turned him onto track days. He picked up an E46 M3 and started running laps, but the cost of the car, as well as his fondness for the cars of his youth, compelled him to make a change.

His aim was rooted in pragmatism and thriftiness. Peter wanted to see if his S13 would handle as well as his M3 because, as he puts it, “then I wouldn’t need two cars.”

His background in drifting meant he’d already learned a lot about the chassis. Having been through five of them, some with swapped engines, he knew that the potential to find a nice balance between power and agility was there if he executed the build properly. Plus, with prices being what they were a decade ago, a well-modified S13 wouldn’t break the bank.

The first iterations of the car were as basic as can be. Aside from swapping in an SR20, the car had little more than basic bolt-ons and set of Hankook RS4s. Yet, contrary to popular opinion, it worked well on the road course.

Entry-level Ohlins, Z32 brakes, a Carbonetics 1.5-way LSD, and a set of Recaros were all the basic bolt-ons needed to make his car work well on the road course. Mild engine mods yielded 250 at the wheels—more than enough for a 2,800-pound car—and the sense of security from his six-point welded cage encouraged him to push the car hard.

“It’s such an intuitive car at that power level. I got down to 1:27s at Streets of Willow pretty fast,” he recalled. Achieving that time in a car requiring little maintenance was bliss; he’d managed to invest minimally and still extract plenty of performance. This was before he decided to wander off into the land of diminishing returns on his investment.

The last of the basic bolt-ons was aero. After throwing some of the APR catalog at the car, Peter was astounded with how well the once-ponderous front end would turn.

Adding power and a set of Brembo F40 brakes helped Peter lap Buttonwillow 13CW in 1:51.

But respectable isn’t really that satisfying in the short term, so Peter, carried away by his curiosity, decided to increase power. A succession of different turbos, an AEM standalone, high-lift cams, and minor porting eventually brought the power output to 390, but not before he went through a few engines.

It wasn’t that the hikes in power—each new motor made about fifty more than the last—stressed them to the failure point. Actually, the most powerful iteration lasted ten events before it spun a rod. Little did he know that slapping on a set of Pirelli scrubs and running the banking at Auto Club Speedway was denying the SR its lubrication. This happened three times, and every time he spun a rod, he just grabbed a new powerplant and got on with it. To be fair, this was easier to do when an engine could be found for a fifth of what they’re worth today.

However, the regular rebuilds challenged Peter’s patience. Seeking a more reliable motor that could produce more power safely, he started weighing the options. The weight and accessibility of the LS tempted him briefly, but a friend who’d just parked their fourth-generation Supra offered him its engine for a friends-only price. Again, it was Peter’s frugality that helped this “deal” along, and soon he had the Supra’s straight-six in his possession.

Unlike the SR, the 2JZ-GTE requires a lot of work when fitting it into an S-chassis’s engine bay, but with various sponsorships, he could make the transition to straight-six power pleasantly. AEM provided the ECU, Beau Brown tuned the engine, Kaizen Motorsports handled the wiring and plumbing, and HeliarcWorks did the fabrication; much of the front was tube-framed to compensate for the 2JZ’s weight. To safeguard himself from the starvation issues he’d dealt with before, he added a baffle and eventually an Accusump.

“It’s not laggy enough!” he laughed.

This time, he wanted to ensure the motor wouldn’t be the weak link. After mounting the radiator in the rear and a massive intercooler up front, he laid them both at 45° angles and devised all the ducting needed to ensure a steady supply of cool air.

The issue was no longer reliability. Instead, it was power—or too much of it. The oversized 90mm throttle body, log manifold, and hefty Comp 6467 turbocharger caused boost to hit like a steam hammer low in the rev range. With 450 lb-ft available at 3,500 rpm and a spiky delivery, the engine made far more than what the car and driver could realistically handle.

The lack of drivability forced Peter to try a few solutions: 295-section rear tires, a larger APR GT1000 wing, and better tires. These helped, but since the wheelspin was worst at lower speeds, he tried toying with the alignment.

Actually, he studied it. After installing a set of Powered by Max drop knuckles, he threw the car up on an alignment rack and started analyzing. These corrected camber and toe gain on compression and improved the control arm angle, resulting in optimized traction and reduced tire wear, but as the footage below shows, it’s still an animal.

Peter has decided to try a new platform and is selling this amazing car. Those interested can check the listing here.

A Simple Guide to Driving in the Rain

Driving quickly in the rain is daunting for many. The chances of a spin certainly increase when the grip is drastically reduced, the challenges of finding the wet line leave some people scratching their heads, and the reduced visibility often keeps people from pushing as hard as they know they can.

However, these challenges are all surmountable with the correct approach. A little bit of theory, a soft touch at the wheel, and a willingness to learn can go a long way—not only in terms of improved car control, but also the ability to improvise in challenging conditions.

There are some things to bear in mind before setting out onto a wet or damp track. First and foremost, the careful driver should take a sighting lap to determine where there are puddles and standing water, where there are dry patches, and where they might be able to experiment with some induced oversteer or understeer safely—a slower corner with some runoff might be the place to get a feel for the car as it starts to slide without incurring much risk.

Finding the Wet Line

While the rubber deposited on the dry/conventional line will generally aid grip in dry conditions, it often has the effect of working against the driver. That deposit is rendered slick by the rain, and so it pays to avoid the conventional line as much as possible.

On a corner which rewards a standard out-in-out line in the dry, the line begins a car’s width or so inside the standard line so that braking begins off the polished and rubbered dry line. The turn-in point is usually a little past the dry turn-in point, as this is will allow you to avoid loading the car laterally on a polished part of the track.

It follows then that, through the middle of the corner, the wet line is usually located a car’s width or so to the outside of the dry line, though this varies pretty widely. Though this not the shortest path through the bend, the greater level of grip off the dry line more than compensates for traveling a longer distance.

Using the unused part of the track will offer better grip in the rain. Photo credit: Driver 61*: Blue—Wet line

With this setup, it’s clear that one will have to cross over the dry line—usually at the corner exit. To execute this phase well, it helps to try and have the car straightened as much as possible prior to crossing over the dry line—minimizing the lateral load on the car will help minimize wheelspin, which can severely limit corner-exit acceleration in wet conditions.

In order to “square off” the corner and take more of a “diamond line,” it helps to sacrifice a little mid-corner speed in order to make an earlier, sharper direction change. In other words, get the car pointed straight slightly before the track-out point. The net effect is a significant improvement on speed down the subsequent straightaway, which more than makes up for a mid-corner lull.

As if that weren’t challenging enough, the wet line isn’t exactly a fixed thing. As the rain subsides, returning to the dry line, or at least a hybrid of the two, might start to make sense. If you notice it getting wetter and rivers crossing over the circuit, you’d be wise to avoid them. Your feel for the grip available will determine how quickly you can find the ideal piece of real estate.

Straightening the car for the exit phase helps in low-grip situations. Photo credit: Driver 61*: Blue—Wet line

General Technique

Smoothness makes a much greater difference when the grip is drastically diminished. Because the car cannot be loaded as heavily, giving it a little more time to transfer its weight is crucial and will make the car’s handling much more predictable. This is easiest to implement when making steering inputs since throttle and brake inputs have their own little nuances that make them slightly more complicated.

In the rain, a mild amount of maintenance throttle will help settle the rear in longer, faster corners. Remember that this weight transfer to the rear must be done gently, but if off-throttle coasting is kept to minimum in the quicker bends, the car is less likely to surprise you.

Braking is fairly straightforward, but due to a lower level of grip, the rate of weight transfer must be slowed and the overall pressure should be reduced. Basically, apply the throttle a little more progressively than you would in the dry.

Assuming the tire compound works well in the wet, the braking distances might not be wildly different than they would be on a dry surface, but it’s wise to work up to the braking points a little more conservatively. Despite all this, it’s still far better to reach the threshold of lock-up or ABS intervention earlier in the braking zone since a little cadence braking can solve the problem. This is much easier to manage than carrying too much speed into the corner because of a tentative brake application.

Lastly, if there is an excessive amount of water on the track, your car might begin to hydroplane in places. If this happens, try to minimize your inputs. A light lift off the throttle may help stabilize the car, but make sure not to lift too abruptly, since you don’t want to send too much weight forward.

Don’t Forget the Basics

In most cases, windows can be closed during medium and heavy rain. In light rain and shower conditions, your windows must still stay open. Your car is not made out of paper—a little bit of water will not hurt your interior.

Bring some waterproof containers for your personal belongings. A little Rain-X or comparable product may help visibility.

There are some misconceptions about high performance summer tires suitability in wet conditions. In fact, many 200TW+ tires perform very well in the rain. Many race teams run extreme summer tires like the Maxxis VR1, Yokohama A052, and Bridgestone RE71RS.

If possible, soften your swaybars and damper settings. This will improve weight transfer and generate a little more grip. Also, reduce camber. Not only will the reduced grip prevent the tire from leaning as much as it would in the dry, but maintaining dry camber settings in the rain might cause the car to rotate a little too willingly in the wet. The right sort of camber settings which cause the car to understeer at the limit will help inspire more confidence in the wet.

Finally, increase your tire pressure. It’s tougher to get them up to operating temperatures in the rain, and a stiffer sidewall can help cut through the water.

With that, there’s not much more to say. Sensitivity trumps bravery in the rain, and every top-tier driver understands how to soften their touch and scan a sodden surface for differences in grip. With a little seat time and some careful experimentation, driving in the rain will not only improve your confidence and resilience, but it will strengthen your driving skills in ways which aren’t obvious to the onlooker.

References

Driver61—Circuit Driving in the Rain

Kevin Schweigert's GR86: Back to Basics

Kevin Schweigert’s fondness for the little Toyobaru products has waxed and waned over the last decade. His first, a first-generation BRZ, gave him that feeling of involvement that had him hooked. The lack of power led him to supercharging its engine and pushing power near the 400-mark, which proved to be a backloaded decision; axles and gearboxes needed replacing soon afterwards.

Tired of dealing with the temperamental blown BRZ, he traded it for a stouter A90 Supra that could happily handle 500 pound-feet. However, the Supra’s heft, increased running costs, and softer edges didn’t excite him quite like the little BRZ once did. In fact, he even considered hanging up his helmet.

Despite big power and impressive lap times, the softer Supra didn’t excite him like his BRZ did.

Thankfully, he didn’t have to do that. After getting a shot at testing his friend’s GR86 last winter, he sold his Supra and sprung for another normally-aspirated, lightweight, visceral, and raw machine. This time, another .4 liters will have to do; Kevin’s done with boosting an FA motor.

Without the former cars’ power, the new GR cannot hope to compete on longer tracks, but its combination of a larger motor and low weight is keeping Kevin quite busy. Significant torque increases and similar gains at the top end mean it’s happy to dance around in third gear in a way that the previous BRZ pre-blower never could.

Though power adders aren’t a priority right now, he’s planned out a few bolt-ons to get the FA24 making something closer to 250 horsepower at the rear wheels. A few duels with a lightly tuned AP2 S2000 has proven that it’s not lacking any straightline speed—and that’s with just a Counterspace Garage Spec Touring exhaust bolted on. This was done mainly for the fact that he couldn’t live with the digitized noise piped into the cabin. “It just wasn’t right,” he said.

He’s made good use of his connections at Counterspace Garage to get his latest acquisition into fighting shape—not that it needed much help. His list of modifications is fairly short, but the effect is obvious. “I wanted more stability and sharpness via the coilovers,” he stated. Thankfully, the ones used didn’t cost him much—they were once the coilovers he ran on his GR. “I had them revalved for 2kg less spring rate since this car is driven to the track,” he added. These CSG Spec Tein SRC V3 (7kg F 8kg R) aren’t the only hand-me-downs—he’s also got an OEM 2013 rear sway bar. Two hand-me-downs and he had all the pointiness he was after.

Stopping also needed some work. For Kevin, the CSG Spec C1/C11 pads don’t fade, last forever, and offer great modulation. Of course, a wider set of shoes helps there, too. His car wears a set of tasteful 17x9.5” Volk TE37 TA +44, including a 10mm front spacer, shod in 255/40/17 Maxxis RC-1 R2.

At this early stage in its development, he’s been able to go sub-two at Buttonwillow CW13 without wings or slicks, and from the onboard footage, it’s not hard to see why. Assuming the angles are kept reasonably shallow, the car can be shimmied in on the brakes and wiggled through the middle of the corner—several times if necessary—to get through the corner quickly and stylishly. The straightline speed isn’t anywhere near as great as his Supra’s, which also likes to dance around in this fashion, but the GR’s low weight, moderate power, and greater communication makes it a more involving drive.

“It’s pretty much telepathic,” Kevin adds.

It’s got the right sort of rack as well as all the sensory inputs needed to keep an aggressive driver completely engaged and satisfied—straightline speeds be damned. An audible beep every time he nears redline, plus a rife bolt-like throw of the gear lever help the 2.4-liter motor stay in its ideal range. Again, this engine’s not a top-end screamer, but the added displacement means the ratios don’t need to be shuffled through so frequently, and that rear end will move around just a little more with some third-gear stabs of the throttle.

That willingness to rotate, plus some mild engine tuning and a few aerodynamic additions might make this GR a contender for the S4 title. Will Kevin take the crown? It’s hard to say, but it’s definitely in the realm of possibility. What’s certain is that he’s rediscovered his love for tracking—and that’s what matters.

Seigo Ma's S2000: Grip and Reassurance

Photo credit: Jebin Huang

Seigo’s had a thing for lightweight Hondas since day one. His foray into track driving came through an RSX, and after about four years of that, he tried his hand at FR with an AP2 S2000.

With Gary Wong’s car in his reticle, Seigo started building this Silverstone Silver AP2 into a car that could run at the sharp end of S3. He began with a set of HKS Hipermax 4 SP coilovers, Stoptech ST40s at the front, and whatever inexpensive tires he could get his hands on. Cheap was the operative word with rubber choice; seat time was everything at this stage—especially if he wanted to get anywhere near Gary and his clean, measured, unruffled driving.

Photo credit: Jebin Huang

Despite it being his first FR, Seigo took to the S2000 quickly. Being an AP2, the rear is slightly more stable than its predecessor’s, but that doesn’t take away from the the accomplishment of adjusting so quickly to a very pointy car. Modeling his S2000 after Gary Wong’s car, he made some of the same changes to setup which help Gary drive quickly without taking in too many liberties.

After he grew tired of the silver paint, he applied a metallic green wrap to help his car stand apart.

He made sure the car remained stable and predictable at the rear so he could push comfortably. “The OS Giken differential, man! After I rode in Gary’s car, I saw how much better the car could exit corners. He’d just stand on it and the rear would take it,” Seigo said.

While the pumpkin was off, he changed the final drive to the “happy medium” 4.3. This was just enough to keep the motor out of its lackluster mid-range more of the time without the inviting constant shifting a 4.44 would require.

And if he was going to get a more stable rear, it only made sense he’d find more composure everywhere. The addition of a set of JRZ RS Pro 3-ways, found secondhand for a steal, he could hustle this car over rough spots, berms, and undulations like never before. “After the JRZs, the dorito at Thunderhill West was just afterthought,” he laughed.

Further improving the stability of Seigo’s S2000, he went for a little aero. “I didn’t want to spend thousands and wait months for a real one, so I got an Voltex Type II replica that I eventually replaced with a swanneck-style replica.” Now, the S2000, which he’d just recently wrapped a metallic green, had much more stick at the rear than most in its league.

To help the aero balance, Seigo added a trick Racebred Components front splitter—the pretty one with tunnels. These help produce more downforce than the traditional flat splitter. In theory, the tunnels work with the fender vents to help reduce front end lift.

By that stage, he’d addressed the main aims regarding balance and grip, arguably the most important traits with a track-focused S2000, so a few power adders were in order. The list was short: a Blacktrax tune, a 70mm Ballade exhaust, Mugen header, and an AFe Performance intake. The total output wasn’t much on paper, but 230 horsepower at the rear wheels in a 2,700-pound car with the right gearing is a surprisingly quick thing.

Still, horsepower was never its thing and will likely never be. “Power adders are expensive, so I’m just going to focus on weight reduction for now,” Seigo added.

Never feeling torque-limited has payoffs—namely in corners where the tires are thrust into the pavement. With a flat underbody extending all the way from the splitter to the Spoon replica diffuser, he’s able to take some quick corners without much concern. With Thunderhill’s Turn 8, it’s just a matter of turning in and staying flat—all at around 108 miles an hour.

“It’s so easy to drive at the limit now! It does exactly what you want it to do, and although it doesn’t have that much power, it can catch more powerful cars—even at Thunderhill East. They walk away in the second half of the track, but I can close the gap in from Turn 1 through 8, though they’re still a little faster in Turn 7.”

Eventually, he had to address one of the S2000’s few shortcomings. With a kit consisting of RX-8 rear calipers and Mustang vented rotors, he got rid of the overheating problem which plagues the stock rear solid rotors. While at it, he decided to upgrade the rear hubs to Karcepts. He’d seen the way Gary Wong’s hubs had given up at Thunderhill West and had no desire to experience that himself.

For now, the desire to put him in contention with Gary Wong and not damage his bank balance has given him one route to follow: weight reduction. With a lighter Shorai battery, APR carbon mirrors, and a carbon fiber hardtop, he‘s trimmed a good hundred pounds from the car, but it’s still about a hundred away from his target weight. He hasn’t committed to the idea of turning this car into a rough, amenity-free track scalpel, but with the indecisive way he’s been casually removing interior panels, it’s not hard to guess where he’ll be in a year.

. With a little dieting, there’s a chance he could give Gary a good fight.

Exterior:
-Fender Roll/Pull
-Replica Voltex Type 7.5 1700mm
-K1 Style Ducktail
-Alumalite flat floor
-Voltex Style Fender Flares
-Racebred Components Splitter with tunnels
-CR Style Lip
-Fender Vents
-Mugen Style Hardtop
-DF Style Side Skirt
-APR Mirrors
-OEM Hood with Trackspec Hood Louvers
Wheel/Tire: Titan 7 17x9.5 with 255/40/17 Advan A052

Interior:
-Momo Mod 78 330mm
-NRG Short Hub
-Worksbell Rapfix GTC
-Recaro RSGE Bride/Cusco Zeta III Sport C with Bride Rails
-CR Shift Knob
-Cusco 6 Point
-Hard Dog Roll Bar
-Innovate Oil Pressure/Temp with SOS Gauge Mount
-Shorai Scorpion Lightweight LiFePO4 Battery (2.75lb)

Suspension:
-Hard Race RCA w/ Camber Offset
-Spoon Gusset Plates
-Origin Fab Front Offset Bushings
-Random Mix of Hardrace/Ballade/ESM spherical bushings
-Megan 32mm Front Swaybar - 2 Position
-Hardrace 30mm Rear Swaybar - 2 Position

Brakes:
-Stoptech ST40
-Raybestos ST45 Front and ST43 Rear Pads
-Reilly Racing RX8 rear caliper conversion kit with Mustang GT Rotor
-Project Mu G-Four Fluid

Engine/Drivetrain
-Ballade 70mm Exhaust
-70mm TP
-Mugen AP2 Header
-AFE Takeda Intake with Oiled Filter
-Flashpro Tune by Blacktrax Performance
-Vibratechnics Fast Road Engine Mounts
-Moroso Baffle with Trap Doors
-Schmuck Built Coolant Reservoir/Catchcan Combo
-Koyo Radiator
-Spoon Clutch Disk/ Ballade 10lb Flywheel
-4.3 Final Gear
-OS Giken 1.5way LSD
-Road Runner Fuel Tank Baffle

Best Laptimes:
Thunderhill East Bypass: 1'58.2
Thunderhill West:1'22.0
Laguna Seca: 1'40.07
Sonoma: 1'47.8
Buttonwillow CW13 - 1'55.5

A No-Compromise Toyota MR2 Named Frog

Joe McGuigan made a bit of reputation for himself with a nicely sorted FR-S. Light, agile, very pointy, and usually driven with a lot of slip angle, Joe’s FR-S was an attention getter. It was genuinely fast, too. He spent a few years developing the car and hit that hard-to-find medium of both playful and quick. Like few other cars in its class, it would genuinely fire off corners while sliding in a way that few vehicles really can.

But the limitations of an FR car are noticeable when you’re trying to find every mid-corner mph available. Basically, its engine placement and suspension design might not strike some as perks. True, an FR car—and particularly the FR-S—is usually an easier car to drive and his is fairly forgiving for how much it slides, but Joe sought more in cornering performance. No compromises, no luggage compartments, and no forgiving weight transfer mistakes.

The nickname “Frog” definitely fits this squat scalpel.

The replacement was about as harsh and confining any streetable car gets. This third-generation Toyota MR-2, better known to fans of Best Motoring as an MR-S, is a truly tiny car.  Surprisingly, the interior is relatively spacious, hence why a 6’3” guy like Joe has not one, but three in his garage currently.

But once he started tracking it, he gelled so well with the little roadster that he forgot about his bruised knees and elbows. Although the MR2’s wheelbase was lengthened to improve stability, it’s still about five inches shorter than the FR-S’. Its overhangs are unusually short, and with an engine placed in the ideal position (mounted laterally, no less), the weight is in the right place everywhere. Speaking of, there isn’t much weight to consider; the MR-S, when fitted with a hardtop, weighs only 2,200 pounds.

“I’ve got a habit,” Joe laughs. “It’s the fifth MR2 I’ve owned, and by far the best. Once I picked this one up, the floodgate opened with all my friends offering parts for cheap. I guess that’s called a good problem to have.”

With the right setup, Joe would be able to get the car to do things that the FR-S simply couldn’t. Swifter steering and shorter braking distances were the obvious benefits, but as he learned, he had easier access to more mid-corner rotation and better traction at corner exit. He could exact his will over this car in subtler ways; its response to weight transfer made it a little spikier and certainly more sensitive to his inputs, but when driven properly, much more adjustable.

That development period was further shortened by having a friend, Tony Rodriguez, who gave Joe a proven modification route to follow with his own track-spec MR2. In addition to following all the suspension leads that his friend gave him, but he learned that the ZZ motors need a little cooling assistance for track work. In fact, the original 1ZZ in the MR-S couldn’t handle the summer temperatures and popped after just eight track days. Though Joe considered throwing in the towel, he grabbed a better motor—one with an oil cooler to keep things in order on August afternoons.

The Link ECU from Panic Wire was used on the 1ZZ. To make life easier for Joe, they have included a subharness for the VVTL-i sensor and oil pressure sensor to make installing the 2ZZ a plug-and-play affair. They actually transfered over the 1zz OEM engine harness as everything plugs in the same

The 2ZZ motor, improved by a Link ECU, a set of cams, and a little optimization from Unrivaled Tuning, is a real lively, top-endy sort of engine that will trump a lot of mid-range turbo motors in terms of sheer exhilaration. Plus, it’s not gutless; the little 1.8-liter makes a healthy 190 horsepower at the wheels. Coupled to a Lotus six-speed with revised ratios, this featherweight MR2 is not a momentum car in the truest sense of the term.

The current modifications are:

Monkey Wrench Racing Stage 2 Cams

PPE Header & Gokey's Garage Custom Exhaust

Konig Dekagram Wheels 15x9 & 15x10

Tires 225/45-15 & 245/40-15

Annex Suspension CSP Coilovers (7K/11K)

Addco Front Swaybar

Raybestos ST43 Brake Pads

TRD Front & Rear Strut Bar

TRD Front Underbrace

TRD Rear Arm Braces

Battle Version Complete Front & Rear Arm Setup (courtesy of Battle Version)

TougeHQ Rear Bash Bar

Custom Front Splitter (Tony R. Special)

Custom Vented Rear Bumper (Tony R. Special)

C-One Replica Sideskirts

OEM Hardtop

GT300 Vented Hood

ARP GT200C Wing with custom risers

The only setup changes made post-swap are a little more rear wing angle, fender flares, and a slight stagger instead of the original 225/40/15 square setup he originally ran. It neutralizes the car, which now enjoys an additional 60 horsepower over the original iteration.

It still verges on oversteer at most times. For that reason, the tired phrase “handles like a go-kart” might actually be appropriate in this instance. This MR2 is pointy, eager to change direction, snappy when trailbraked incorrectly, and on a fast lap, usually dancing under his control. In many ways, it really is like a quick kart.

It should only get easier to drive and less frenetic when the setup is improved, but for now, it’s plenty thrilling, even with a few rough edges. 

SPEEDSF CHALLENGE - SEPTEMBER 22, 2019 - ROUND 10 @ THUNDERHILL RACEWAY - WEST

INTRODUCTION

West is Best - and on a Saturday, no less! Featuring a new S3 lap record set by some commoner in a hovercraft, this lap record was previously set by a Dirty boy. SHOCKER! Anyways, while it was a hot day, it didn’t stop 15 wonderful people from showing up trying to best driver they could be for this SpeedSF Challenge on Thunderhill West!

CLASS S1

This guy, man - being the sole entrant made it easy for Gordon Peng to take home 1st place in S1. He and his Chevy flew around the course, putting down a quick 01:21.411 lap time for the day. Great job!

CLASS S2

Bunch of fools in this group - Three drivers, three podium-placers! Andrie Hartanto drove some type of vehicle to take home 1st place! Andrie and the invisimobile drove levitated or something around Thunderhill West and used its magic powers to get a 01:20.795. This was obviously more of the car than the driver so let’s just take this with a grain of salt. A REAL driver by the name of Gary Yeung, piloted his Dirty Mango S2000, taking home 2nd place thanks to his 01:20.795, just a hair slower than the 1st place guy in the Mystery Machine. 3rd place finisher Gary Wong took a wrong-wheel drive Honda around the circuit for a 01:23.042 lap time. Probably faster than his Dirty Coconut S2000, tbh.

CLASS S3

Fearless leader Patrick Chio struck again with a new S3 lap record, except this time in the S3 class thanks to some excellent driving in some unnamed German tank. A 01:21.954 lap time beat out Gary Yeung’s S2000 lap time of 01:22.150 which was set back in 2016. This put Patrick securely in 1st place ahead of 2nd place Seigo Ma who set a new personal best lap time of 01:23.333 lap time! Bob Blackwood (not pictured because he went home early) took home the 3rd place finish with his 2005 Lotus Elise and a 01:25.012 lap time. Great job to our drivers in this class! We love seeing our drivers set new PBs.

CLASS S4

Suddenly, a wild Alfa appeared in the SpeedSF Challenge, driven by Jeff Tam, whose 01:26.306 lap time narrowly edged out Ritchie Punzalan’s 01:26.352 2nd place lap time set in his BMW E36 M3. Much respect to Jeff for helping that 4C shine! 3rd place…. dude, come on, Joe. A 01:26.387 in your FR-S! Need a friendly gust of wind next time to get you up the podium places :)

CLASS S5

“Mia” Yeung took home first place in not-his Miata, but earned a graceful 01:28.747 lap time, while 2nd place Kyle Abbas traversed this desert oasis in his Podracer, putting down a 01:34.747 lap time! Tatooine would be proud!

CONCLUSION

An excellent job to our drivers who won their places and THANK YOU to everyone who participated in the SpeedSF Challenge! For those who are still chasing podium finishes, more seat time, coaching, and watching videos of the track will certainly get you there!

As we look forward to Round 11 of the SpeedSF Challenge at WeatherTech Raceway Laguna Seca on October 26, we want to say that we truly appreciate our sponsors and participants as it would not be possible without them! 

We thank our sponsors Wine Country Motorsports, G-Loc brakes, Titan7 Wheels, Necksgen, and Charles Schwab for their continued and valued support. Please visit their respective websites to show your support and let them know SpeedSF sent you!

Again, our next SpeedSF Challenge will be held at WeatherTech Raceway Laguna Seca in Salinas, CA. Again, please check out the event website by clicking here. We will see you at our next event!

Federal Tires SpeedSF Challenge @ Thunderhill Raceway - February 25, 2018 - Round 2

Round 2 @ Thunderhill east

Round 2 of the Federal Tires SpeedSF Challenge was held at Thunderhill Raceway as part of an exciting two-day weekend. A huge entry list for this round netted some incredibly close points-grabbing, in addition to SEVERAL track records being broken, making it one of the more intense SpeedSF rounds of recent memory. Additionally, the Federal Tires contingency earned two drivers free tires! 

Sohan Kota won two free tires for his Group S4 1st Place finish, while Eric Talistu won one free tire for his Group S5 3rd Place finish!

                                                                    Federal 595-RSRR

BROKEN RECORDS at Thunderhill East:

Group X:     1:51.710 (Jeff Cook - 2002 Corvette Z06) 02/25/18

Group S1:     1:53.259 (Andrie Hartanto - Corvette C6 Z06) 02/25/18

Group S2:     1:56.925 (Patrick Chio - Nissan 350Z) 02/25/18

Group S3:     1:59.551 (Edwin Pham - Honda S2000) 02/25/18

Group X:

Group X featured two drivers: winner Jeff Cook in a Corvette C5 Z06 and Gary Yeung in his world-famous Honda S2000. With Shah Rukh Khan's absence for this round, this allowed Jeff to grab 25 points, tying the two gentlemen for 1st place. Pretty boy Gary secured 2nd place for this round. 

Group S1 featured a repeat winner, Josh Grobin in a Porsche GT3, and two newer drivers, Philip Spencer in a Lotus Exige and Nikolas Beisert in a 2015 Ford Mustang GT. Philip scored 2nd place,  while Nikolas scored 3rd place. Great driving by both of them! Andrie Hartanto accepted the award on Josh's behalf during this round, causing great laughter and confusion as to who the real Josh Grobin is!

Group s2

Group S2's winner was SpeedSF's very own Patrick Chio in his made-for-Thunderhill Nissan 350Z. Historically, his car has performed very well at Thunderhill East and this time it was no different. Group S2's runner-up was Gordon Peng in his Corvette C5 Z06, an amazing run featuring fresh tires, a determined set of eyes, and brass hardware whose gleam could be seen for miles. He snatched an easy 21 points, putting him squarely at the top of the S2 group as we head into Round 3. 3rd place winner was Jourdan Risoen in a 2011 Subaru WRX. It is still a young season, but if this round was any indication, the S2 points battle will be very close as each round progresses. 

The shirt clearly explains why he was able to secure a podium finish!

Group S3

Group S3 is a loaded group of track stars. It features the usual track toys piloted by some of the finest drivers SpeedSF has to offer. Edwin Pham secured a 1st place finish in his Honda S2000, followed by John Lawrence's 2nd place finish in his big bad 2017 Chevrolet Camaro SS 1LE. Tim Crane took home 3rd place his own FWD beast, a Honda Civic EK hatch. 

Group S4

Group S4, although a smaller group of drivers, already has a runaway winner heading into the Round 3 of the SpeedSF Challenge! Sohan Kota won 1st place again in his Honda S2000 (AP1), while Alex Lin took 2nd place with his own Honda S2000. With a name echoing famous racing liveries of yore, Gabriel Rothman took 3rd place in his Ford Focus RS. 

Group S5

Finally, Group S5, a group featuring a really cool Ford Escort race car straight out of Georgia, and, of course, a sea of Miatas! Miata hero Corentin Derbois continued his reign this round with a 1st place finish in his Mazda Miata, with Ronald Nielsen in a Ford Escort ZX2 trailing not far behind in terms of points! His 2nd place finish at Thunderhill vaulted him to 2nd overall in S5, leapfrogging Iakona Simpliciano by 5 points. 3rd place finisher Eric Talistu rounds out Group S5, finishing off an exciting round 2 at Thunderhill. 

As we look forward to Round 3 of the SpeedSF Challenge at Thunderhill, we want to say that we truly appreciate our sponsors and participants as it would not be possible without them! 

We would like to thank our Challenge sponsor Federal Tires, as well as SpeedSF Track events sponsors Wine Country Motorsports, G-Loc brakes, DBA USA, Necksgen, and iLapTimer 2.

Our next SpeedSF Challenge will be held at Thunderhill Raceway on March 18, 2018. Again, please check out the event website by clicking here. We will see you at our next event!