Passing Etiquette: Making Space and Saving Face
Passing and braking are the last two things a driver learns to do well. We’ve broken down a series of basic rules to follow to help learn how to make the pass stick and how to do so safely.
Photos (unless specified otherwise): Trevor Ryan
Overtaking is a tricky business, and learning how to pass decisively and safely takes time and practice. It pays to err on the side of caution — especially with unknown drivers. After all, squabbling for position isn’t the most judicious thing to do when there’s no prize on the line. Nobody wins a track day.
As a general rule in racing, the overtaker must present themselves alongside the driver in front — typically with the overtaking driver’s front wheels ahead of the overtaken driver’s rears before the turn-in point. This way, they’re able to see the other driver through their peripheral vision. Studying one’s surroundings and knowing where other cars are at all times is necessary to become a capable track driver.
Of course, this is a rule followed in wheel-to-wheel racing. With Speed SF, the passing car must have its front wheels in-line with the passed car’s front wheel before the beginning of the braking zone if they want to attempt a pass. It’s worth giving everyone a little more room since nobody can truly win at a track day, after all.
Our aim is to give all our drivers their own space and help the faster drivers safely navigate the slower traffic so nobody gets held up.
To give assertive advanced drivers the leeway to pass freely while allowing novices time and safety to ease their way into it, we have outlined some hard and fast rules for our various run groups. For those groups with stricter passing rules, like Green and Blue, the process of passing is made as simple as possible.
Novice Group (Green)
Responsible novices dedicate most of their mental energy to driving their own car, so they likely lack the bandwidth to watch their mirrors while driving. For this reason, we only allow passing on the designated straightaways — never through the middle of a corner — to simplify the mental burden. The courteous driver being passed should lift off the throttle to make life easier for the passing driver. This really helps when overtaking in a Miata.
When the driver being passed decides to lift off their throttle, they give the passing driver more room to complete this overtake prior to the braking zone, which is our second requirement. The passing driver should not be pressured into squeezing themselves down the inside at the turn-in point. Just because someone, especially a novice, gives the point by does not mean that a pass is possible; the passing driver must carefully judge whether it is going to work. If it’s doubtful the pass can’t work, back off — nobody wins a track day.
Generally speaking, we like the driver being passed to allow the passing driver to rejoin the conventional driving line before turning in. If they insist on turning into the corner from an inside line (ie. a line closer to the apex than the standard line), they must navigate a shorter radius and therefore reduce their entry speeds accordingly.
Because the novice’s situational awareness isn’t as great as a regular who instinctively checks their mirrors, we require the passing driver to wait for a specific gesture from the driver ahead. By leaning their left hand out the window (or right in a RHD car) and pointing at the portion of the track they’d prefer the overtaking driver to use while passing, they give a sign of recognition and avoid confusion. Wait for a clear signal, and preferably before a longish straightaway — it’s safest and easiest to pass there.
Intermediate Group (Blue)
Even with their experience, we want members of blue group to follow the same passing rules as the members of green.
HARD RULES: GREEN/BLUE
Point-by passing is required at all times. Under no circumstances is passing in the corners allowed, and passes along the straights must be completed before the braking zone.
Point-by Recommended/Mixed Group (Yellow):
After a dozen days or so, driving alongside others at a quick pace is no longer terrifying like it once was. We try to encourage these drivers to be assertive with their car placement so as to begin the two-part process of an advanced pass. Both parties must be aware of one another, and as long as there’s enough room to overtake safely, we allow passing without a hand signal. Though a point-by is still recommended to make sure everyone is aware, it isn’t required.
There are other ways to communicate reaching an arm outside the window. For instance, the driver being passed taps their rear-view mirror prior to the turn-in point (a common acknowledgement). This indicates that the driver attempting the pass is seen and will give way. The driver ahead can also offer a corner without signaling by slowing than necessary before turn-in, usually off the ideal line. If the driver behind sees the “door opening” and the driver ahead taking an odd line slowly into the corner, they will know they’ve been given a chance to pass.
HARD RULES: YELLOW
The fundamental skill required to run in this group is strong situational awareness. Drivers are allowed to pass anywhere, but only at a moderate pace. Point-by passing is recommended, but not required. Exercise caution and make sure to read the driver ahead before attempting a pass.
Open Passing Group (Red + Gold):
Highly experienced drivers aren’t protected by such rules, which means they need to read the subtler signs of a driver giving way, learn how to pass decisively, and how to present themselves so as to be seen.
To run successfully in the Open Passing Group, you must know how to improvise with car placement while keeping the general level of grip in mind. Even while driving through a corner side by side, both drivers must be able to react and, hopefully, anticipate the other’s move.
Of course, open passing doesn’t mean fighting for position like it would in a true race setting, but the increased level of competition typical in this run group
Assuming both parties can recognize each other’s position on track and drive in harmony, these sorts of overtakes can be done safely. They do, however, require a good deal of spatial awareness, decisiveness, car control, and forethought. For that reason, we only allow drivers with over twenty track days under their belt (or those holding a racing license) to join this group.
HARD RULES: RED/GOLD
Twenty-plus track days or racing license needed to partake. Must be experienced with open passing. No passing restrictions as long as drivers exercise good judgment.
Final Thoughts
Cooperation is the name of the game, so try to wait until a definite sign is given before attempting a pass. Make sure there’s adequate grip available to take a tighter line than the conventional line if that’s what the situation requires. The tighter the line, the more deceleration prior to the corner is required. Trailbraking helps here.
If a train of cars ahead makes life difficult for a faster driver bringing up the rear, they’re advised to pit momentarily to establish a gap. This makes life much easier and offers a better chance of achieving a personal best.
When deciding whether or not to attempt an overtake, remember that the passing car is always responsible for ensuring a safe pass. Even if the car ahead closes the door on the driver behind, it’s the latter’s fault. Leave a little space whenever possible and never squeeze somebody on a track day.
Keep eyes up at all times, scan the environment for faster and slower cars both and behind, and try not to fixate too much on rolling speed into the corner during an overtake. Instead, prioritize a strong exit. Well, the beginners should try to do this to avoid sliding off when overtaking on the inside. The experienced drivers know that, in racing, sometimes getting ahead of the driver in front is all that’s needed; an overtaken driver can’t always respond if the overtaking driver exits the corner slowly. Again, that’s racing, and this is track day driving, where the objective is to bring the car home in one piece.
Lastly, remember that there’s nothing to win here. Track days exist to help people gain experience running independently, so giving way to a faster driver when they’ve demonstrated superior speed is a mark of maturity. Yes, it might sting, particularly if they’re in a much slower car, but leave some room for humility and open the door — following a faster driver closely can be the best sort of instruction anyone can get.
A Simple Guide to Driving in the Rain
It might intimidate some, but driving in the wet/low-grip conditions is one of the best ways to improve as a driver. Here are some simple tips to remember next time the heavens open on your track day.
Driving quickly in the rain is daunting for many. The chances of a spin certainly increase when the grip is drastically reduced, the challenges of finding the wet line leave some people scratching their heads, and the reduced visibility often keeps people from pushing as hard as they know they can.
However, these challenges are all surmountable with the correct approach. A little bit of theory, a soft touch at the wheel, and a willingness to learn can go a long way—not only in terms of improved car control, but also the ability to improvise in challenging conditions.
There are some things to bear in mind before setting out onto a wet or damp track. First and foremost, the careful driver should take a sighting lap to determine where there are puddles and standing water, where there are dry patches, and where they might be able to experiment with some induced oversteer or understeer safely—a slower corner with some runoff might be the place to get a feel for the car as it starts to slide without incurring much risk.
Finding the Wet Line
While the rubber deposited on the dry/conventional line will generally aid grip in dry conditions, it often has the effect of working against the driver. That deposit is rendered slick by the rain, and so it pays to avoid the conventional line as much as possible.
On a corner which rewards a standard out-in-out line in the dry, the line begins a car’s width or so inside the standard line so that braking begins off the polished and rubbered dry line. The turn-in point is usually a little past the dry turn-in point, as this is will allow you to avoid loading the car laterally on a polished part of the track.
It follows then that, through the middle of the corner, the wet line is usually located a car’s width or so to the outside of the dry line, though this varies pretty widely. Though this not the shortest path through the bend, the greater level of grip off the dry line more than compensates for traveling a longer distance.
With this setup, it’s clear that one will have to cross over the dry line—usually at the corner exit. To execute this phase well, it helps to try and have the car straightened as much as possible prior to crossing over the dry line—minimizing the lateral load on the car will help minimize wheelspin, which can severely limit corner-exit acceleration in wet conditions.
In order to “square off” the corner and take more of a “diamond line,” it helps to sacrifice a little mid-corner speed in order to make an earlier, sharper direction change. In other words, get the car pointed straight slightly before the track-out point. The net effect is a significant improvement on speed down the subsequent straightaway, which more than makes up for a mid-corner lull.
As if that weren’t challenging enough, the wet line isn’t exactly a fixed thing. As the rain subsides, returning to the dry line, or at least a hybrid of the two, might start to make sense. If you notice it getting wetter and rivers crossing over the circuit, you’d be wise to avoid them. Your feel for the grip available will determine how quickly you can find the ideal piece of real estate.
General Technique
Smoothness makes a much greater difference when the grip is drastically diminished. Because the car cannot be loaded as heavily, giving it a little more time to transfer its weight is crucial and will make the car’s handling much more predictable. This is easiest to implement when making steering inputs since throttle and brake inputs have their own little nuances that make them slightly more complicated.
In the rain, a mild amount of maintenance throttle will help settle the rear in longer, faster corners. Remember that this weight transfer to the rear must be done gently, but if off-throttle coasting is kept to minimum in the quicker bends, the car is less likely to surprise you.
Braking is fairly straightforward, but due to a lower level of grip, the rate of weight transfer must be slowed and the overall pressure should be reduced. Basically, apply the throttle a little more progressively than you would in the dry.
Assuming the tire compound works well in the wet, the braking distances might not be wildly different than they would be on a dry surface, but it’s wise to work up to the braking points a little more conservatively. Despite all this, it’s still far better to reach the threshold of lock-up or ABS intervention earlier in the braking zone since a little cadence braking can solve the problem. This is much easier to manage than carrying too much speed into the corner because of a tentative brake application.
Lastly, if there is an excessive amount of water on the track, your car might begin to hydroplane in places. If this happens, try to minimize your inputs. A light lift off the throttle may help stabilize the car, but make sure not to lift too abruptly, since you don’t want to send too much weight forward.
Don’t Forget the Basics
In most cases, windows can be closed during medium and heavy rain. In light rain and shower conditions, your windows must still stay open. Your car is not made out of paper—a little bit of water will not hurt your interior.
Bring some waterproof containers for your personal belongings. A little Rain-X or comparable product may help visibility.
There are some misconceptions about high performance summer tires suitability in wet conditions. In fact, many 200TW+ tires perform very well in the rain. Many race teams run extreme summer tires like the Maxxis VR1, Yokohama A052, and Bridgestone RE71RS.
If possible, soften your swaybars and damper settings. This will improve weight transfer and generate a little more grip. Also, reduce camber. Not only will the reduced grip prevent the tire from leaning as much as it would in the dry, but maintaining dry camber settings in the rain might cause the car to rotate a little too willingly in the wet. The right sort of camber settings which cause the car to understeer at the limit will help inspire more confidence in the wet.
Finally, increase your tire pressure. It’s tougher to get them up to operating temperatures in the rain, and a stiffer sidewall can help cut through the water.
With that, there’s not much more to say. Sensitivity trumps bravery in the rain, and every top-tier driver understands how to soften their touch and scan a sodden surface for differences in grip. With a little seat time and some careful experimentation, driving in the rain will not only improve your confidence and resilience, but it will strengthen your driving skills in ways which aren’t obvious to the onlooker.
References
Driver61—Circuit Driving in the Rain